2018 was the year of eyeshadow purchases. Urban Decay, Anastasia Beverly Hills, BH Cosmetics, WetnWild Color Icon, Colorpop, Covergirl, Viseart and Smashbox.
And then in December I finally succumbed to the hype. I used the 25% discount on https://www.patmcgrath.com/ and got myself a PAT McGRATH PALETTE !
The Hype is Real.The $125 price tag is hefty but these shades and formula need a shrine ! No, a temple actually.
And while I hate paying for packaging, thus my respect for Viseart, the Mothership palette’s packaging is a work of art.
I c.a.n n.o.t bring myself to throw the cardboard box away. And the actual palette in itself is heavy! At a pinch you could defend yourself and hit someone on the head with it.
As an everyday makeup wearer I don’t care that the palette doesn’t have the shade names printed on it. Who am I ‘instructing’ ?
Now the formula is unique through and through. The shades seem to play with light to reveal yet another layer of colour. In-fact I am having a real hard time trying to describe the shades!
The shades are described on the site as follows:
6 Powderluxe Pressed Eye Shadows in innovative formulas with matte, pearl, and sparkle finishes.
4 modern, hybrid pigmented formulas in metallic, satin sheen, iridescence, and holographic brilliance finishes.
What does that mean ? I am trying!
So Xtreme Black and Deep Shade are mattes. Now Deep Shade is described with ‘warm’ undertones. But when I swatch it I see a more grey/cooler undertone. A deep milk chocolate brown with a cool undertone ? Un-usual and I love it.
Skinshow Fever is a Champagne gold that I would call a shimmer.
Lazarus is a brown-bronze satin-sheen. (Sephora describes it as a warm pinky brown.)
Night Creature is a deep magenta, swatched on my hand looks like a satin but on the eye it sparkles like crazy!
Now for the stars of the palette. This last quad. This is probably what Pat McGrath Labs call the hybrid modern formula.
Oh my !
VR Pink is a peachy-pink with a golden undertone. It’s a glitter. Most reviewers use it as a topper but I use it by itself.
Gigabyte is a green-gold, also called dirty gold or antique gold. It’s stunning. It is a fantastic metallic shadow that looks so elegant on the lids.
Blitz Amethyst is a purple with a blue pearl and pink shift! WTF ?? If I can describe it in the most basic way I would call it a metallic- glitter.
Black Metal is a gunmetal matte with silver pearl.Now the white shade, Astral Ghost Orchid is tricky. It is the most glittery shade that is white with a pink reflect. It has sheer to medium coverage and works best as a glitter topper. This is the only shade I am still trying to work out how best to show it off.
Wear and Application.
I will tell you right now I am a novice at eyeshadow. I watch YouTube and I play with eyeshadows and that’s how I learn’t how to work with different formulas. Pigments, Shimmers, Metals. Finger v/s brush. Natural hair v/s Synthetic, Dry v/s Fix+ or wet.
And…I dont touch glitter. I am not that advanced.
Having said that the Pat McGrath formula is a BREEZE. I had zero learning curve other than Astral Ghost Orchid.
I love Subversive. The shades make my eye look so glamorous and editorial. As if I were a model in one of Pat McGrath’s instagram videos!
They have great staying power. 4-6 hours of wear without creasing or balding.
For the abundance of glitter in a lot of the shades in this palette, there is
- Minimal fall-out. Zero to minimal with a glitter glue/tacky base
- Easy to work with or without primer.
- Easy to work with natural or synthetic brushes.
- Easy to work with a primer or a concealer.
- The mattes blend like a dream. Even Xtreme Black. I am usually scared of opaque blacks and never ever use them. But not this one!
I don’t care there is no ‘transition’ shade. Lucky for me Deep Shade works perfectly in my crease and/or to anchor a look.
Inspite of this price, this palette is truly democratic.
It doesn’t have any of the nonsense that ABH Subculture, Natasha Denona and James Charles x Morphe palettes seem to have. “You need to be a makeup artist”, ” You need MAC paint pot to make it work”, ” You don’t know how to use my palette”.
Oh get over yourselves.
Subversive works with my Wayne Goss brushes, Real Techniques, Morphe and ELF brushes and with a $1 sponge applicator.
It works with my finger.
It works with WetnWild mattes.
It works with my Urban Decay primer potion, NYX glitter glue and a WetnWild concealer.
So far I have not used Fix+ or wet the brush. I haven’t felt the need personally.
I am worried about Pat McGrath’s next palette release because I know I will want it.